McLeod Ganj,

Chris and I just finished our 4 day stay in McLeod Ganj, a beautiful city perched on a mountain side in Northern India.  It’s the capital of the exiled Tibetan government and is filled with mostly Tibetans and supporters.  We came to celebrate the Dalai Lama’s birthday on July 6th but he was a no show which was slightly disappointing.  Instead apparently he was around here but he left the day before to go to Delhi and thank the Indian government for allowing the Tibetans to stay in India (this year is the 50 year anniversary of their headquarters in McLeod Ganj).  There was still a pretty big event on his birthday which was interesting, although admittingly we left early because most of the speeches were in Tibetan and it was crowded.

I had a strange experience in McLeod Ganj during a run.  Jogging is not a popular past time here so first of all people are staring more than normal, yelling random things, and shaking my hand as I run by.  A few groups of Indian guys tried to stop me and talk but I successfully avoided them and kept running.  One group though got me to stop and one guy says to me “Can I have just one kiss?” Uhhhh… I was pretty dumb founded and didn’t really respond to that.  While I was standing in surprise another guy who was apparently more adventurous didn’t need to ask me for permission and kissed me on the cheek.  In fact, they decided they needed a picture with me so the one guy was just kissing my cheek for 30+ seconds while another was (slowly) taking a picture.  Yeah… pretty gay.

Which brings me to my next point… guys are very touchy with each other here in a way that if you saw it in America you would definitely think they are homosexual but apparently they are not.  Guys holding hands and walking down the street is a common sight.  Men and women are, however, not allowed to show affection towards each other.  You will hardly ever see them holding hands or even just touching in public, you will generally only see it between 2 guys.

Another thing:  Toilet paper.  Not so common here.  At all the places we’ve stayed we only got toilet paper 2 or maybe 3 times.  More common is a bucket that you fill up with water then simultaneously pour it over your butt and use your left hand.  Another less common but popular solution is a small hose next to the toilet that you can use.

The left hand thing is big here which is why most Indians eat with their right hand.  Not with any utensils or anything, just picking up the food in their hand and passing it into the mouth.  This actually isn’t so gross for me until the rice is covered with sauce and then things get pretty messy and difficult for me to look at.  My Western brain just doesn’t get it… I will stick with a spoon.

Anyways, we will be in Manali for 2 days before we take an 18 hour minibus ride to Leh that involves 1 overnight stay at 14,000 feet.  The road goes over some of the highest mountain passes in the world, getting up to around 17,500 feet.  Sweet!

10 Responses to “McLeod Ganj, ”


  1. 1 mom Jul 9th, 2009 at 8:17 am

    Happy to hear from you! Continue to have fun on your amazing journey!!

  2. 2 Dad Jul 9th, 2009 at 11:07 am

    Question on bungee jumping: after the jump is over, I presume you are hanging in the air by your ankles. How do you get back to land again?

  3. 3 Sandra Jul 9th, 2009 at 11:31 am

    hahahah. That’s pretty funny about the Indian guys asking to kiss you. but in a strange way, a sort of compliment is given. It’s better than them hating you. I’m glad you’re having a great time in India now. It seems to be a much better experience than your first run through.

  4. 4 Sam L Jul 9th, 2009 at 8:56 pm

    Thanks for the TP description dude. Actually kinda reminds me of Dallas.

  5. 5 Aunt Binky Jul 9th, 2009 at 10:24 pm

    Hmm, this left hand thing, and hoses, buckets, etc. Is there soap?
    E.coli is not your friend.
    Tell about your lodgings. Where do you sleep?
    Your travels are endlessly fascinating!

  6. 6 mom Jul 10th, 2009 at 11:23 am

    Has the toilet paper you took with you run out?

  7. 7 Sandra Jul 11th, 2009 at 2:27 pm

    I have to say. I do love America’s TP supply

  8. 8 Davy Jul 12th, 2009 at 11:21 am

    Dad: They lower you down to the bottom where somebody has a long pole that you grab onto. Then they just keep lowering you down and remove the equipment at the bottom.

    Binky: We have our own soap, it is generally not provided. As for lodgings go we usually stay in pretty basic places that make cheap hotels in America look good by comparison. The rooms are generally nothing more than 2 small beds with small mattresses and blankets and a small wooden table. We usually have an attached bathroom with a Western toilet, sink, possibly a mirror, and a shower that is actually just a shower head attached to the wall that sprays onto the bathroom floor. We have only had AC in Mumbai and Kolkata otherwise there would be a ceiling fan in really hot places.

    I say that they make cheap hotels in America look good by comparison but I’m really just talking about the accomodations. The atmosphere is always much more pleasant with a garden outside and friendly people. You don’t feel like you are going to get murdered like you might at some cheap interstate motels in America.

    Mom: My roll still hasn’t run out… Impressive or disgusting… tough to say

  9. 9 Aunt Binky Jul 12th, 2009 at 10:30 pm

    I love that you answer our questions!

    And I love the description of pretty courtyards and friendly people. What a great experience your are having.

  10. 10 mom Jul 13th, 2009 at 10:56 am

    whew

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